This post is about Mesa Rim manager Alexis’s rock climbing weekend in Joshua Tree and gaining confidence in not only trad leading and placing gear, but also setting up anchors and top belaying.
This is how it goes: The left hand side-pull is okay. A voice insists that my left foot is bomber. My right foot? Oh, hell. My right hand? Can it seriously reach that stupid cam on the left side of my harness? Oh, hell. Before I proceed to take action, I note that I dislike falling enough to make this placement work. I take a couple of deep, slow breaths and proceed to get high on The Bong…
Trad climbing scares me. Why? So many factors to consider: Is this the best placement of my protection? Will my protection hold if I fall on it? Is there a chance that the rock will expand or break and bye-bye protection? How far will I fall if I can’t get this pro in? What will I hit when I fall? On and on and on…watching clips of weekend whippers doesn’t help. In conjunction with climbing ability, trad climbing know-how, and environment, is overcoming mental barriers — Something I work at constantly only to feel like there’s something holding me back. Oh yeah, my own mind.
Friday
I usually have an idea of what to expect at Joshua Tree: Slab, crack, sticky, beautiful, and humbling rock. My climbing friend, Mateo, and I typically pick a new spot or spot we haven’t climbed on in a while. This time around, we stayed overnight in Hidden Valley. The weather was excellent and our friend, Tony, had graciously reserved a campsite for us (right next to Stem Gem).
We arrived early evening on Friday, with enough time catch a beautiful sunset, bake a German chocolate cake via dutch oven, and jump on Toe Jam (5.7) by moonlight.
I expected to lead a sport route or two this trip. What I realized was that it was time to expand my wings a little more.
Saturday
We spent morning to late afternoon at The Cathouse. The routes are short, generally good protection, though a little chossy. It was windy in the mid section, but totally fine about 15 feet lower. Bolted anchors at the top convinced me to practice some trad lead. A successful attempt was more than a nudge towards bigger plans the next day.
Late afternoon and evening included hiking around Barker Dam, practicing anchor building around the campsite, and befriending some lads attempting Stem Gem (v3/4 or in my opinion v-not gonna happen).
Sunday
Matt’s friend Tony stopped by in the morning to grab his tent that he set up to help reserve the campsite. His morning was free and happily suggested a great beginner trad route for me and offered to supervise my anchor set up and be photographer. Since he lives in the area and is an outdoor climbing instructor, we welcomed his advice and company. The route was called The Bong and located just around the corner of our campsite.
I agree that it is a great beginner route for trad leading – 5.4 crack with great places for protection, nice holds, and a huge boulder for a nice anchor set up at the top. The crux is a small roof, which I admit is where I questioned my ability and confidence. Having supervision during the climb and at the top reinforced what my fear keeps making me forget: I can do it.
After climbing The Bong, Tony took off and we proceeded to The Eye, where I was left to my own devices. The conversations I had with myself up The Eye were question and answer format, no time for small chit chat, but only to check off safety points and silly assuredness. Besides the rope drag, everything went as planned, if not better. A hiker dudette even asked if she could take a picture of me and my set up. I felt good. I felt safe.
I definitely have more to learn, but this weekend in Joshua tree I made great progress. Internal reward: Accomplishment and confidence. External reward: The view, a fist bump and Jamba Juice.
“The joy of life consists in the exercise of one’s energies, continual growth, constant change, the enjoyment of every new experience. To stop means simply to die. The eternal mistake of mankind is to set up an attainable ideal.”
-Aleister Crowley
-Alexis Diller • Marketing Manager at Mesa Rim
Mesa Rim Indoor Rock Climbing San Diego ^^ A Community Blog 
I followed this route and found the “walkoff” was more difficult than the climb!
That’s what I hear. But I got to rap back down and my friends cleaned the anchor and walked off.